--:-- [Theme music fades out]
--:-- Noel King: Welcome to Today Explained. I'm Noel King.
--:-- Noel King: Generation Alpha is obsessed with skincare. Let's talk to a member of Generation Alpha about their skincare routine.
--:-- Ellie: Oh boy. Okay. So I get up and I wash my face. I use two cleansers. I go in with moisturizer. I use like this rose water spray from Trader Joe's. I go with another moisturizer and I go in with my like SPF sunscreen. I use a toner, which is probably like my favorite part of skincare. It makes my skin, like, glowy and not so dry, which is what I'm going for.
--:-- Noel King: And then you use, like, two different eye moisturizers.
--:-- Ellie: Because sometimes my eye bags can be bad in the morning.
--:-- Noel King: Ellie is 14, going on 40.
--:-- Ellie: [laughs] I just go in with this Revive serum. Really makes your face glowy. She's glowy regardless. But on Today Explained, kids have become fixated on skincare, and a multibillion-dollar industry has found a new customer base.
--:-- Noel King: Support for this show comes from ServiceNow. AI is only as powerful as the platform it's built into, don't you know? That's why it's no surprise that more than 85% of the Fortune 500 use the ServiceNow AI platform.
--:-- Noel King: Having a night out with your friends is awesome. Dealing with hangovers sucks. Meet Senorita, the THC-infused margarita that lets you skip the booze but keep the vibe.
--:-- Noel King: What do you think today explained this? I don't know. What convinced poreless Gen Alpha that it needed skincare?
--:-- Ellie: Something, something, something social media.
--:-- Noel King: Hey guys, so I've gotten so many comments asking me to do a skincare routine, so... So from YouTube and TikTok, they descend on Sephora.
--:-- Noel King: Frequently, it does not go well. Sephora employees are not your babysitters.
--:-- Noel King: They'll buy anything, but there's one brand they really covet, Drunk Elephant.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I was just on the floor helping people out and this little girl came up to me, obviously asking if we had the Drunk Elephant bronzy drops.
--:-- Noel King: This was the time when they were so incredibly viral that they weren't in stock literally anywhere.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: The Drunk Elephant tweens are kids from 8 to 13 who are absolutely obsessed with skincare. They're also known as the Sephora kids.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And they have been dominating the conversation as of late around skincare and beauty trends.
--:-- Noel King: That's the editor-in-chief of Allure, Jessica Kruhl.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: What is a drunk elephant, I say, sounding my age?
--:-- Noel King: Drunk Elephant is a skincare brand that was founded back in 2013 by someone named Tiffany Masterson.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And the brand is known for really amazing formulas that have great active ingredients and has colorful packaging.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: So it's like white with like black lettering, but then somewhere within the product, it has like a color.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And it just, I think it makes it fun, honestly.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: When I was 13, it was like St. Ives apricot scrub and Bonnie Bell lip smackers.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And the thing was, you could buy those for a couple bucks.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Yeah. Is Drunk Elephant like super cheap? It's allowance friendly?
--:-- Noel King: Definitely not.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Drunk Elephant is more in the kind of $30 to $80 price range.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: So it's a little bit more than what we were spending at the drugstore when we were preteens.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: If I have saved enough money, I could technically buy it.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But I think I wait for like Christmas or my birthday.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And therefore, my parents or like my family will buy it for me.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: You know, I've been in this industry for some time.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: So I was around when they first launched.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And even then, they were very popular among, you know, women who were in their late 20s, 30s, 40s, and above.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: They're very efficacious, and that's why they're popular.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: If someone younger wants to use Drunk Elephant, they have other things that might be appropriate for that age group, but just not the things that are heavy on the actives.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Let's talk about the science here and what an active is.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Yeah. Retinol antioxidants, I feel like those words became something very familiar to me when I hit maybe 32, 33.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And I was like, okay, you got to be smearing these on. You're old now.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But certainly not when I was 13.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: What do these actives, what do they actually do?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: So actives are things like retinol, salicylic acid, alpha hydroxy acid, vitamin C.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: They are the most potent part of a formula.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: They are what give you the effects of brightening or anti-aging in some cases, although, you know, that's not necessarily something that we support at Allure.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: These are the things that are going to give you the effects that you're looking for.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I'm reading between the lines here.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: The thing that you're saying Allure doesn't necessarily support is the idea that every person who is aging should try to look much younger.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Yes.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: In 2017, we banned the term anti-aging in our coverage.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: No! Yes! It is a whole new world out here.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Yes, because we believe that this idea that you can reverse age is not the reality.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: The only way to stop aging is to die.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And so it's an inaccessible ideal.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: We cannot reverse time.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And so we wanted to stop supporting that message.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Now if you want glowier dewier healthier skin we respect that and understand that because that what you had when you were eight when you were a drunk elephant scene
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: To some degree as a geriatric millennial I you know anti is something that, like, I'm okay with the idea in general.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I wish I looked 29 again sometimes.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Not all the time, but sometimes.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But I think the big difference is when I was 13, I was not trying to look seven.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: What are the children doing? Do they think they look old?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Not at all.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: We've been doing some reporting as of late where we are talking to people between the ages of 10 and 13 along with their parents.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And they are much more educated about the skincare market than we give them credit for.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: What we're hearing is that they watch TikTok, they watch YouTube and they see people like Alex Earl, who has 6.5 million TikTok followers.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: You guys know I'm obsessed with the Drunk Elephant bronzing drops.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And they just came out with these.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Or Katie Fang. I feel like skin prep is so important.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I always want to look like I'm shiny.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And they want to emulate that routine.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: It's a part of being in the in crowd.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Let's talk about both pros and cons.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: The con, I mean, look, it's silly and it's expensive.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Do the active ingredients, is there any science telling us the actives that you talked about might be hurting youthful skin?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Or is it just like, nah, you guys don't really need it?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: No, it can be harmful if done incorrectly, right?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: So an eight-year-old using retinol or vitamin C, that's unnecessary.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: They are too harsh for young skin.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And if a child does use those things, it can cause irritation, perioral dermatitis, which is kind of a rash around the mouth.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: That's not good.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I think also what we're seeing is this kind of smoothie, cocktailing trend where people are mixing a lot of products together.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: That's also unnecessary.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: That's when you can get irritation on young skin.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I am still pretty young, so my skin isn't aging just yet.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But the reason why also like people who maybe are a little older like drunk elephant is because some of their products have retinol in them and that is something that teens should be staying away from so not all of their products have it but some of them do
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Jessica how old are you
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I'm 34 okay so you might be slightly too young but do you ever have that thing where you like you just like look at a young person's skin and just want to like touch it.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I mean, it's so bouncy. It's so bouncy and dewy and gorgeous and they've got the good stuff.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But I think, you know, in general, what they really want is that dewy effect.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But when we talk to dermatologists, they do say that there is a positive to this whole thing.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And that is they are getting into a routine of taking care of their skin early.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: If we think about if we were using sunscreen at 10, what those effects could be as far as the rate of skin cancer in the world, it could be game changing.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And so the routine that dermatologists we've spoken to at Allure recommend is a gentle cleanser, a basic moisturizer, and a sunscreen, preferably a mineral sunscreen.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: If we can have that habit started at the preteen stage, that is only going to benefit them as they go through life.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I also think, you know, at this time, puberty is happening earlier than it ever has.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: The average age of a girl going through puberty is about 11.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Skin changes during that period, just like it changes during menopause because of hormonal changes, right?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: So that's when we get acne coming in.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And that's when we might be adding things like salicylic acid, right?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: That's the same thing that we used to use with our Neutrogena pads and things like that.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But in general, the whole idea is gentle, keep the barrier, the skin barrier intact and safe and protected and wear your sunscreen.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Do you think these young people tell us anything about the future of beauty, about what we're going to admire 20 years from now when they're adults?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: What we're seeing now is actually something that's very similar already in the Asian beauty market.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: You know, South Korea is the kind of beacon of skincare technology and skincare culture.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And in that culture, children grow up knowing the importance of a skincare routine.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And I think that has many different effects.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I think also it's what's happening in the industry with this age group is people are becoming more knowledgeable, which I think is important.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: People are becoming more accepting as well.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: When we talk about acne, there's a huge surge in acne patches, and they're not the clear ones.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: They're yellow bright stars.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: They will go to school wearing an acne patch.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: It looks cute.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: It's cute.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: It's not shameful to have acne to a certain extent, right?
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: And so I think they have a lot more self-esteem, self-confidence in certain areas than we give them credit for.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: I think that doesn't totally mix the negatives that we have around social media and that social media causes.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: But social media, one of the positives is that we have so many different diverse faces and beauty types that are being highlighted and people are able to really see and try different things that I think is just amazing.
--:-- Jessica Kruhl: Jessica Krul, editor-in-chief of Allure, and you also heard Eliana Litvak, 14. You can call her Ellie.
--:-- Noel King: Coming up, to borrow Jessica's words, we're not going to nix the negatives. There is a downside to the skincare obsession.
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--:-- Noel King: Today Explained.
--:-- Noel King: My name is Rebecca Jennings. I am a senior correspondent at Vox covering internet culture.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Perfect.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Okay, so earlier in the show, we were talking about tweens, some children, some young teens who really love skincare.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And they're trying to get what we learned is called the dewy look.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: What are things in this realm looking like for people who are a little bit older than 9 or 10?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: So right now on the internet, there's all this discourse that Gen Z is supposedly aging like milk.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And this essentially which is to say bad as opposed to wine which ages well tonight I was on live with my boyfriend and someone was like how old's your girlfriend and John jokingly responds 47 and the girl comments oh I thought she was early 30s I am 23 basically this led to another trend where regular people on TikTok were like People keep saying Gen Z is aging like milk, so like how old do you think I look?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: You wanna be humbled? Ask TikTok how old you are.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I am 29.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: People have always thought I've looked young, I thought.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Anyone who's been on the internet knows that this is a really bad idea, and, uh, cause people are mean.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: But TikTok thinks I'm like 40.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: From there, it kind of stemmed into this whole thing where people have all these conspiracy theories about why this is.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: It is mainly because of the stress.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Whether it's even really happening.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I am Gen Z and nobody ever believes me.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: When my mom and I walk out in public, people think that my mom is my younger sister.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: So things are weird in the what are people aging like world.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: So is there any evidence that Gen Z and millennials are actually aging worse than Gen X and the boomers did?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I mean, no.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Like, these are conspiracy theories.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And, like, they are based on a handful of TikToks.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I think a lot of it stems from the fact that people look really different online than they do in real life.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: It's really hard to tell people's ages on the internet.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Everyone is kind of smoothed out.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: People just, like, look more similar online.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Like, when we see someone in IRL, it's like we see, like, more clearly, more depth, whatever.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: When you get all these people of all these different ages in a row online, they don't look, like, that different.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I think that's a big part of it.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Another one is I think a lot of, you know, Zoomer women grew up on YouTube tutorials.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: They learned how to do makeup really well from a really young age.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Gonna use a little bit of this to clean up the eyebrow using the M410 brush.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: This one does come in my brush set.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: People just naturally look older when they have on makeup, full stop.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And so they've been kind of making themselves look older for their whole lives.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And I think there's a real conflation between looking good and looking older when these things actually mean two different things.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Do I look 40? Do I look 40? How old do I look, Ben?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: We talked to my 14-year-old niece earlier, and she has like a nine-step skincare routine for her like plump, delicious little face.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: What are 20 and 30-somethings doing to look younger or to preserve what they already have?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Yeah, I think like in any point in history, people will do anything and everything they can to preserve their youthful skin.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: We have these really involved skincare processes.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And I think now it's sort of swung back to a little bit more simple.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: It's like moisturizers, sunscreen, retinol, retinoid.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: These are the most important things that people can do to preserve their skin.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: But I do think there is a little bit of like a pendulum swing back from, you know, injecting your face with a ton of fillers.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Because I think we've seen a lot of examples where that can go really wrong.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: First tonight, a makeup artist from Jersey has told ITV channel she could barely look in the mirror after having a lip job that went horribly wrong.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Jo Barron's filler was injected into an artery by mistake.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And now I think a lot of people are really interested in, like, laser treatments, facials, things that you can go to get at, like, an esthetician or a dermatologist that aren't going to have the potential to make you look a little overdone in the way that I think we've seen a lot of in the past 10 years.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: How big is the anti-aging industry?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And is it growing or has it always been a thing?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I think you would not be surprised to learn that it is extremely growing.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Sephora has started their own skincare line.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Kylie Jenner launched Kylie Skin.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And even Amazon is offering its own line.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Part of the reason? Skincare is a higher margin in business than cosmetics
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: So according to data from Euromonitor International the anti market grew from billion in 2016 to billion in 2021
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And that's in the U.S. alone.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: In the world, it went from $25 billion to nearly $37 billion during that same period.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: South Korea is the world's third largest cosmetics exporter after France and the United States.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Cosmetics, in fact, are a bigger export for Korea than home appliances, pharmaceuticals, and mobile phones.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I also don't think you'll be surprised to learn that so much of that growth, as much as 49% of, like, skin care's growth, is coming from gen alpha, which is to say, like, tweens.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: These things that were once sort of just the province of celebrities and people whose job it is to, like, look really pretty, now this is everyone's province.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Because we're all living our lives very openly online.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: None of us have, you know, in human history, we were never meant to look at ourselves this much and our appearance is never meant so much.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And regular people are just more visible than ever.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And that just like adds to people's own obsession with the way that they look.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And I think a lot of it is pretty logical, in fact.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: You know, it's kind of seen as this really vain thing to do, but it's also very understandable.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I love the idea that we just weren't meant to be looking at ourselves this much.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: You're laughing, but I'm like, that is profound.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Maybe I will take that with me through this day.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Let me ask you about, we talked about this recently in a series that we did on Ozempic.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: There's an idea that society is moving forward and becoming more inclusive of different looks, more body positive.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: How do you balance the idea and possibly the truth that we're becoming more inclusive with respect to looks with the idea that our beauty standards, again, always seem to point to youth, youth, youth, youth, and whatever beautiful happens to look like this week?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Body positivity really blew up in the 2010s because of social media.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Being fat is really just a description.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: It's just saying I'm larger.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Like if you look it up in the dictionary, it doesn't say anything about being stupid or ugly.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Because before that, there was just magazines and, you know, commercials and Hollywood and music like telling us what to look like.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And then all of a sudden you get this like explosion of other people's voices on the Internet calling for body justice, fat liberation.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: A fashion blogger. My style is 100 percent unapologetic.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: But then what happens is like the culture industries swallow that up and then they sell it back to us.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: My beauty, my beauty, my beauty, my say.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And of course, like, like they're gonna like try to get you to buy their products and buy.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And one way to try to get people to buy their products is upholding this aspirational ideal that people don't already have.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: So if you want someone to buy something, you have to make them feel like they're lacking in some way.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Dove is different with one fourth moisturizing cream for softer, smoother skin.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Your skin looks beautiful.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: For smoother, more glowing skin, it must be Dove.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: That's a really good sales pitch that, of course, upholds these really, really like anti-human ideals that we are always striving for.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Do you think that any of this leads anywhere good?
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: Um if if enough people call for sort of like aging justice or body justice which which did happen to an extent with the rise of social media like they will then swallow that up in return and i and i don't think you can say that that body positivity on social media did nothing because we really do see a lot more diversity of bodies and every every form of diversity because of social media.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: But I also think, you know, I'm clearly a cynic here.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And like, you know, this is this is all in service of getting us to buy things and to watch things and to feel a little bit bad.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: And that's just something that like every person that engages with the beauty industry must know on some level.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: That's not to say that like, if you buy makeup or skincare, you're a bad person.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: I do that all the time and find great joy in it.
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: But like, when it comes to self worth, and like, you know, comparisons to people whose job it is to look really pretty that's where you know it leads to just a big generation feeling like they're not young enough they're not thin enough they're not whatever enough and when these ideals keep changing which they just always will because once something becomes like too accessible then it will become like less cool or less you know interesting then the ideal will change and so it's you will never get there basically and so
--:-- Rebecca Jennings: So true acceptance within yourself is the only path to feeling even a little bit OK.
--:-- Noel King: Vox's Rebecca Jennings.
--:-- Noel King: You also heard a bunch of TikTokers, including Jordan Howlett, Alex Earle and Katie Fang.
--:-- Noel King: Today's show was produced by Haleema Shah and edited by Matthew Collette.
--:-- Noel King: Laura Bullard is our fact checker.
--:-- Noel King: And Patrick Boyd is our engineer.
--:-- Noel King: I'm Noelle King.
--:-- Noel King: It's Today Explained.
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